Author: Critter Corner Staff

Applies to most common tropical/temperate species such as temperate whites (Folsomia candida) and tropical pinks (Coecobrya tenebricosa)

Enclosure: The most common enclosure for springtails is a small plastic bin, 6 qt/L or similar size. No ventilation holes are necessary if the enclosure isn’t airtight.

Enclosure setup: There are a few different methods of keeping springtails, from a soil substrate to clay to charcoal. Charcoal is the most common. This should be horticultural charcoal with nothing added. The container should be filled around halfway with the charcoal, then ¼-½” (6-12mm) of distilled/filtered water in the bottom. Temperature isn’t too important, but should be somewhere in the range of 65-85F (18-30C).

Diet: There are also different options of things to use to feed springtails. These options include but are not limited to rice, fish food, vegetable peels, and brewer’s yeast. Brewer’s yeast is generally considered to be most effective and easiest to use. Just sprinkle in some of the yeast every few days, mist, and allow mold to grow. The mold is the majority of their diet. 

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More guides:

Springtails US Care Guides

Enclosure: Different enclosures can be used, although most common are tanks and small plastic bins. Size will vary based on how many worms/beetles there are. This container should have a screen lid or ample ventilation holes drilled in it to prevent condensation and mold growth.

Enclosure setup (décor, substrate, etc.): The substrate is the main component of their diet. There are many options to use, including but not limited to wheat bran, oatmeal, or unmedicated chick feed. There should be around 2-3” (5-8cm) of substrate. This should be removed and replenished when there is too much frass (poop). There also should be hiding/climbing spots like toilet paper rolls, egg flats, etc.

Diet: The majority of the diet should be the substrate. For hydration and additional nutrition, vegetables and fruits should be provided. The best for this are apples, potatoes, carrots, squash, etc. as those will last longer and take longer to mold.

Pupation: Once the worms have reached over 2” (5cm), separate them out from other individuals with no food or water. Hobby boxes (for beads and such), tackle boxes, deli cups, film canisters, etc. can be used for this. After a week, the superworms will curl into a ‘C’ shape and pupate. After around 2-3 weeks, these pupae will hatch out into adult beetles. They will start off white then harden over 24-48 hours. Once they are dark with a hard exoskeleton, they can be moved into the same type of setup that the worms are kept in.

Breeding: Superworms will reproduce best around 75-82°F (24-28°C) — much lower and production will slow down. Move the beetles to a new container every 2-4 weeks to allow the eggs to hatch and new larvae to grow. Make sure the fresh larvae have plenty of moisture and are kept warm enough (ideally around 78°F/25°C).

Enclosure: Different enclosures can be used, but tanks and small plastic bins are the most commonly used. Size will vary depending on how many worms/beetles there are. This container should also either have a screened lid or plenty of holes drilled for airflow. There should be enough ventilation to keep humidity down and prevent condensation/mold growth.

Enclosure setup (décor, substrate, etc.): The substrate is the main food, usually composed of grains. There are many options to use for this, including but not limited to wheat bran, oatmeal, or unmedicated chick feed. There should be 2-3” (5-8cm) of this substrate. The substrate should be removed and replaced when there is too much frass (poop). There also should be ample hiding areas, such as egg flats, toilet paper rolls, etc. 

Diet: The majority of their diet should be their substrate. For hydration and other nutrition, vegetables and fruits should be provided. The best for this are apples, potatoes, carrots, squash, etc. as those will last longer and take longer to mold. 

Breeding: If kept around 75°F (24°C) and other conditions are good, they will actively breed without much assistance. Higher heat (up to 86°F/30°C) can help production and development speed up, while lower temperatures will slow it down, even completely stopping development. Some people will use a multi-layer drawer set up, where each drawer has a different life stage, although it isn’t necessary to separate them like this. 

Enclosure: There are many different options, but the most common are tanks and plastic tote bins. Enclosure size will depend on the number of crickets and their size. Generally, you want at least a 10-20 gallon (40-75L) tank or a 50qt (64L) bin. Regardless of the type of enclosure, it must have plenty of ventilation, either an all-mesh lid for a tank or many ventilation holes along the sides and lid for a bin.

Enclosure setup (décor, substrate, etc.): Set up the enclosure with egg flats for climbing and hiding. Substrate is optional, but it can be helpful to keep the crickets cleaner as well as reduce smell. Vermiculite especially can help to reduce odor and keep humidity down. Crickets can also be kept on a naturalistic substrate.

Diet: Diet should be primarily fresh foods like vegetables and some fruit, as well as protein (fish food, safe cat/dog food, cricket/roach chow, etc.). Any fresh foods should be removed within 24 hours if not eaten to avoid bacteria growth and smell. Hydration like water crystals can also be used.

Breeding/egg laying: If breeding, temperatures of 85-89°F (30-32°C) should be maintained, ideally with an overhead heat lamp like a halogen or deep heat projector. Once mature, the crickets should also be provided with a container with a moist substrate to allow for egg laying, such as a short sandwich container or a deli cup. Damp vermiculite or a soil substrate (coco fiber, peat moss, etc.) can be used. Some will suggest using a mesh/screen over the damp substrate, with large enough holes to allow for the females to oviposit in, to prevent eggs from being eaten. Place a small piece of egg flat on this container, as well as a smaller piece as a ramp into the container. Only leave this container in for a few days before removing and replacing

Incubation and nymph care: Place the lid on the egg laying container (with minimal ventilation holes) and incubate at 89°F(32°C) for 8-10 days or so. At this point the pinheads will begin hatching. Once this happens, place the egg container into another container and put a small piece of egg flat into it to make a ramp for them to get out. Keep these nymphs the same way older crickets are kept, with slightly higher humidity for the first few instars.