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Tarantula Care Guides

Poecilotheriinae Basics

Common genera: Poecilotheria

Enclosure size for adults: Ideal minimum for these species is around 12×12×18” (30×30×40cm), with some species such as P. rufilata possibly needing even larger.

Enclosure setup (décor, substrate, etc.): These are arboreal species, although they will burrow as well. They should have substrate at least 4-6” (10-15cm) deep, as well as sufficient climbing space. These tarantulas will also appreciate plenty of hiding spaces, such as bark, plants (live/artificial), etc. They will also web and use debris in their webbing, like leaf litter and moss.

Humidity/moisture: These species are very tolerant of a wide range of humidity levels, although they prefer it more moist/humid. It is best to keep the substrate damp, but not soaked.

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Tarantula Care Guides

Stromatopelminae Basics

Common genera: Heteroscodra, Stromatopelma

Enclosure size for adults: The majority of these species stay a medium size (5-6in/12-15cm) as well as being arboreal, so they require an enclosure around 12×12×18in (30×30×40cm) as adults, at minimum.

Enclosure setup (décor, substrate, etc.): These species, although they are arboreal, will also burrow quite a bit. They should have substrate at least as deep as 2x their legspan, while also having tall hiding areas like a large piece of bark, where the tarantula can either hide inside or behind it. They will create a hiding area with webbing and debris, so they should have things like moss and leaf litter to add to their webs.

Humidity/moisture: These species generally prefer it on the drier side. Leave the substrate dry with a moist corner and a water dish.

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Tarantula Care Guides

Schismatothelinae Basics

Common genera: Neoholothele, Euthycaelus

Enclosure size for adults: These species are all smaller, ranging from true dwarves to near dwarves (under 4”/10cm), meaning their enclosures can be smaller sized, ideally around 10×10×10” (25×25×25cm).

Enclosure setup (décor, substrate, etc.): The species in this subfamily are generally terrestrial, with some burrowing tendencies. Substrate as deep as their legspan is sufficient, although deeper will be used as well. Slings are more likely to burrow and will need deeper substrate, around 2-3x legspan. For décor, these species should have hides such as bark and sufficient other décor (plants, leaf litter, etc.) to allow for coverage.

Humidity/moisture: These species are generally regarded as being moisture dependent although they don’t need it extremely moist. They will appreciate a moist substrate and a water dish.

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Tarantula Care Guides

Ornithoctoninae Basics

Common genera: Cyriopagopus, Omothymus, Lampropelma, Phormingochilus, Ornithoctonus

Enclosure size for adults: These species have a wide range of sizes, from medium (5”/12cm) to large (8-9”/20-23cm), so the enclosure sizes will vary greatly. As a general rule, enclosures should be at minimum 2.5-3x legspan in all directions.

Enclosure setup (décor, substrate, etc.): Most of these species are primarily arboreal, while a few species, like some Cyriopagopus spp. are more fossorial. All of them prefer to have some deep substrate to burrow, around 1.5x legspan, with a large piece of bark to hide for the arboreal species. The fossorial/burrowing species should have at minimum 2x their legspan in substrate. All of them are heavy webbing so they should have décor like bark and plants to web as well as leaf litter, moss, etc. to add to their webs.

Humidity/moisture: These species are moisture dependent, meaning they need a more moist substrate.

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Tarantula Care Guides

Harpactirinae Basics

Common genera: Ceratogyrus, Idiothele, Pterinochilus, Harpactira

Enclosure size for adults: Most of these species are around 5” (13cm) so an enclosure around 12×12×12” (30×30×30cm) is ideal as a minimum.

Enclosure setup (décor, substrate, etc.): These species are all fossorial or opportunistic burrowers, meaning they need deep substrate that can hold burrows well. Substrate should be minimum around 2x legspan. They should also be provided with hides and décor like bark, plants, etc.

Humidity/moisture: These species generally prefer it drier, so they can be kept with a primarily dry substrate with a moist corner and water dish.

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Tarantula Care Guides

Eumenophorinae Basics

Common genera: Monocentropus, Hysterocrates, Pelinobus

Enclosure size for adults: These species have a range of sizes, from Monocentropus balfouri which reach around 5” (12cm) to Hysterocrates gigas which can reach 8” (20cm). This means enclosure sizes can vary as well. In general, enclosures should be around 2.5-3x legspan in all directions.

Enclosure setup (décor, substrate, etc.): These species are all fossorial or opportunistic burrowers, meaning they need deep substrate that can hold burrows well. Substrate should be minimum around 2x legspan deep. They should also be provided with hides and décor like bark, plants, etc.

Humidity/moisture: Most of these species prefer it drier, while some prefer it more moist. H. gigas specifically prefers a moister substrate. The other species should have a dry substrate, with a moist corner and a water dish.

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Tarantula Care Guides

Psalmopoeinae Care

Common genera: Tapinauchenius, Psalmopoeus, Pseudoclamoris, Amazonius, Ephebopus

Enclosure size for adults (see Sling Guide for sling enclosure guidelines): Generally an 8×8×12” (20×20×30cm) is good for most species; a good guide is 2x legspan in width and length and 3x legspan in height from substrate to top.

Enclosure setup (décor, substrate, etc.): Especially as slings and juveniles, these species tend to burrow quite a bit, although they are also considered arboreal. They will often make “dirt curtains” behind bark as a place to hide. As adults they should have substrate around as deep as their leg span. They should have a cork round or flat spanning the height of the enclosure so they can web up under/inside/behind it. Live/artificial plants, other wood pieces, and more bark should be added as anchor points. Things like leaf litter and moss are good additions for webbing materials.

Humidity/moisture: They tend to prefer a more moist environment although they generally aren’t too particular, as long as there is enough ventilation.


Species/Genera Specific:

Ephebopus spp. (E. murinus, E. cyanognathus, E. uatuman, E. rufescens) – These species tend to be more fossorial and will appreciate an enclosure with more substrate depth.


References:

Tarantula Collective – Venezuelan Suntiger (Psalmopoeus irminia)

Tom’s Big Spiders – Psalmopoeus irminia Husbandry Notes

Keeping Exotic Pets – Orange Tree Spider (Pseudoclamoris gigas) Care Sheet

Keeping Exotic Pets – Tapinauchenius violaceus (Purple Tree Spider) Tarantula Care Sheet

Keeping Exotic Pets – Psalmopoeus reduncus (Costa Rican Orange Mouth) Tarantula Care Sheet

Keeping Exotic Pets – Psalmopoeus pulcher (Panama Blonde) Tarantula Care Sheet

Keeping Exotic Pets – Venezuelan Sun Tiger (Psalmopoeus irminia) Care Sheet

Keeping Exotic Pets – Trinidad Chevron (Psalmopoeus cambridgei) Care Sheet

Keeping Exotic Pets – Skeleton Tarantula (Ephebopus murinus) Care Sheet

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Tarantula Care Guides

Aviculariinae Care

Common genera: Avicularia, Caribena, Ybyrapora, Typochlaena

Enclosure size for adults (see Sling Guide for sling enclosures): Generally an 8×8×12” (20×20×30cm) enclosure is good for most species; a good guide is 2x legspan in width and length and 3x legspan in height from substrate to top.

Enclosure setup (décor, substrate, etc.): These species don’t really need much for substrate as they don’t burrow or even tend to spend much time on the ground, even as slings. Either a long cork bark flat or tube extending the height of the enclosure should be used to allow for a hide. Other things like plants (live or artificial), more bark pieces, or other pieces of wood make good décor.

Humidity/moisture: These spiders, when young especially, often do not do well with heavy misting and stagnant humidity. They must have plenty of cross ventilation (preferably ventilation on two sides and the top). You can add water to the substrate to increase humidity if needed. A water dish either on the bottom of the enclosure or glued/silicone to the side is sufficient. For small slings you can drop water onto the web or lightly spray the wall.


Genera/Species Specific:

Typochlaena seladonia – this species makes trapdoors in the bark of trees, so should be provided with a piece of bark standing up to allow them to create their trapdoor. This is most often done with cork bark, but other soft barks likely work as well.


References:

Tarantula Collective – Guyana Pinktoe (Avicularia avicularia) Care Sheet

Tarantula Collective – Antilles Pinktoe (Caribena versicolor) Care Sheet

Marshall Arachnids – Avicularia Species Care

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Tarantula Care Guides

Tarantula sling care

Housing: Keep it small, especially for very tiny slings (1/4-1/2″(6-12mm) or less) so they are able to find food easily and you can readily monitor them. Generally around 2″ wide by 1.5-2″ tall (5×4-5cm) is sufficient for terrestrial species under 3/4″ (19mm) and 2″ wide by 3.5″ tall (5×9cm) is sufficient for arboreal or fossorial species. Ensure there is plenty of ventilation, but not enough that the enclosure will dry out quickly.

Water: It isn’t really necessary to use a water dish for slings as long as they’re getting water in another way. If you choose to use a water dish, you can use something like an tattoo ink cup, water bottle cover, single LEGO block turned upside down, or even a trimmed golf tee. If not using a water dish, spraying the side and/or drizzling water into the substrate is sufficient.

Humidity/moisture: Depending on species, most slings will benefit from half of their substrate being kept moist at all times as they can easily desiccate (dry out) if kept too dry. Some species, like Ceratogyrus spp. (horned baboons) and most other African baboon species, prefer a drier environment and will actually do better if kept all dry with a water dish. Other species like Cyriopagopus lividum (cobalt blue) and Theraphosa spp. (Goliath birdeaters) are more moisture dependent and prefer a more moist substrate, so I usually keep their entire substrate moist.

Feeding: Feed every 3 days. Either live prey or pre-killed prey (whole or partial) can be offered. If live, the prey should be smaller than the body length (minus legs) and you should ensure it is eaten within 24 hours. If pre-killed, the prey should be smaller than the leg span and removed within 24 hours to prevent mold growth.


Other Resources:

Tom’s Big Spiders – Tarantula Sling Husbandry

Tom Moran – The Ultimate Tarantula Sling Guide – Part 1 – Video

Tom Moran – The Ultimate Tarantula Sling Guide – Part 2 – Video

Tarantula Heaven – How to Care for a Tarantula Sling vs. an Adult Tarantula