Housing: Keep it small, especially for very tiny slings (1/4-1/2″(6-12mm) or less) so they are able to find food easily and you can readily monitor them. Generally around 2″ wide by 1.5-2″ tall (5×4-5cm) is sufficient for terrestrial species under 3/4″ (19mm) and 2″ wide by 3.5″ tall (5×9cm) is sufficient for arboreal or fossorial species. Ensure there is plenty of ventilation, but not enough that the enclosure will dry out quickly.
Water: It isn’t really necessary to use a water dish for slings as long as they’re getting water in another way. If you choose to use a water dish, you can use something like an tattoo ink cup, water bottle cover, single LEGO block turned upside down, or even a trimmed golf tee. If not using a water dish, spraying the side and/or drizzling water into the substrate is sufficient.
Humidity/moisture: Depending on species, most slings will benefit from half of their substrate being kept moist at all times as they can easily desiccate (dry out) if kept too dry. Some species, like Ceratogyrus spp. (horned baboons) and most other African baboon species, prefer a drier environment and will actually do better if kept all dry with a water dish. Other species like Cyriopagopus lividum (cobalt blue) and Theraphosa spp. (Goliath birdeaters) are more moisture dependent and prefer a more moist substrate, so I usually keep their entire substrate moist.
Feeding: Feed every 3 days. Either live prey or pre-killed prey (whole or partial) can be offered. If live, the prey should be smaller than the body length (minus legs) and you should ensure it is eaten within 24 hours. If pre-killed, the prey should be smaller than the leg span and removed within 24 hours to prevent mold growth.
Other Resources:
Tom’s Big Spiders – Tarantula Sling Husbandry
Tom Moran – The Ultimate Tarantula Sling Guide – Part 1 – Video
Tom Moran – The Ultimate Tarantula Sling Guide – Part 2 – Video
Tarantula Heaven – How to Care for a Tarantula Sling vs. an Adult Tarantula