Enclosure: Different enclosures can be used, although most common are tanks and small plastic bins. Size will vary based on how many worms/beetles there are. This container should have a screen lid or ample ventilation holes drilled in it to prevent condensation and mold growth.
Enclosure setup (décor, substrate, etc.): The substrate is the main component of their diet. There are many options to use, including but not limited to wheat bran, oatmeal, or unmedicated chick feed. There should be around 2-3” (5-8cm) of substrate. This should be removed and replenished when there is too much frass (poop). There also should be hiding/climbing spots like toilet paper rolls, egg flats, etc.
Diet: The majority of the diet should be the substrate. For hydration and additional nutrition, vegetables and fruits should be provided. The best for this are apples, potatoes, carrots, squash, etc. as those will last longer and take longer to mold.
Pupation: Once the worms have reached over 2” (5cm), separate them out from other individuals with no food or water. Hobby boxes (for beads and such), tackle boxes, deli cups, film canisters, etc. can be used for this. After a week, the superworms will curl into a ‘C’ shape and pupate. After around 2-3 weeks, these pupae will hatch out into adult beetles. They will start off white then harden over 24-48 hours. Once they are dark with a hard exoskeleton, they can be moved into the same type of setup that the worms are kept in.
Breeding: Superworms will reproduce best around 75-82°F (24-28°C) — much lower and production will slow down. Move the beetles to a new container every 2-4 weeks to allow the eggs to hatch and new larvae to grow. Make sure the fresh larvae have plenty of moisture and are kept warm enough (ideally around 78°F/25°C).